Press Frati Rossi

GABRIELE BALDERESCHI and GRAZIELLA TRAVERSO

The dream is served

Who hasn’t joked around with a group of foodie friends, wondering: what if we opened a restaurant? Gabriele Baldereschi and Graziella Traverso took the plunge for real, with the naivety of dreamers.

He was a Toscan and a representative of woodworking plants, she was from Liguria and a homemaker. They already lived in Cagliari, where they held gourmet dinners every Friday with a group of friends. And that thought would occasionally weave its way into their pleasant conversations.

Until one of them, who had become a real estate agent, informed them of the availability of a nice venue, not too expensive, above Porto Cervo.

The view over the Pevero Gulf, all the way down to Tavolara Island, from the Pantogia hill wiped away any doubts. “Let’s go for it,” they said, rolling up their sleeves.

It was 1994, and up until just days before the opening, they didn’t even have a name. At which point Graziella reminded her husband of a dream, in which their restaurant was named just that. “The Red Brothers.”

It was meant to be a simple trattoria serving Italian cuisine, where she cooked and he managed the dining room.

Both completely self-taught. Whether it was the charm of the landscape, the authenticity of the offerings, or the passion and talent of the duo, the response was immediate and surprising; the qualitative growth has continued as well.

So much so that soon the couple’s two young daughters, Maura and Dialta, joined them, supporting their father Gabriele in the dining room, with the latter also working in the pastry section.

Then came the son-in-law Michele, also working in the dining area and cellar, alongside chefs Vito Pipitone and Samuele Filia, who assisted Graziella.

The new energy, combined with a desire to experiment spurred by a largely international gourmet clientele, gradually transformed the trattoria into a classic and elegant restaurant with a pleasantly relaxed atmosphere.

COMFORT AND CLARITY

the Frati Rossi

When Gabriele and Graziella first saw it, the venue, originally a clubhouse for a tourist village in Pantogia and having undergone various managements, was very different from what it is today.

It used to be a small space, nestled in a paradisiacal garden, accessible only by climbing through granite and Mediterranean scrub, far from the main road.

That secluded location has, over time, become a key ingredient of its success.

As business grew, a first veranda was added to enhance the view of the gulf and the garden, soon expanded and air-conditioned, with elegant windows that make it feel like dining in the open air, regardless of the season.

The entrance is striking, featuring ample parking and characterized by boes, sculptures made by a craftsman from Nuoro, which are illuminated at night.

The restaurant is open ten months a year, from Epiphany until October: it offers about seventy seats in winter, rising to 120 in nice weather when dining is also available outdoors.

The wine list, curated by Gabriele and Michele, houses 500 labels in a modern, climate-controlled cellar: it boasts the best of Sardinia, alongside many selections from Tuscany, Piedmont, and international references; highlighted is a selection of Champagne with 50 options, where nothing is missing: the flagship bubble is Maison Valentin Leflaive, followed by Cristal, Dom Pérignon, Pol Roger, Ruinart, and Bollinger.

THE ITALY

à la minute

The kitchen of the house immediately stood out for its offering of classic Italian dishes, with raw fish in the spotlight, even before it became popular.

Among the best sellers is even osso buco, while the fresh and stuffed pasta is all made in-house. Graziella particularly values her legendary potato gnocchi with pesto, competing with the ricotta and spinach gnudi, sautéed in butter and sage. Liguria has always had close ties with the island, as does Tuscany, especially with Maddalena for commercial reasons.

However, the territory has its place in the kitchen, featuring signatures such as lamb stew with olives and wild fennel, malloreddus alla campidanese, carlofortina, and barbaricina with maccarones de busa prepared by an artisan from Barbagia.

Much of the raw materials, in fact, are sourced locally: first and foremost, the fish, starting with the prized lobsters from Isola Rossa and authentic bottarga in thick slabs; but also the vegetables, such as the spiny artichokes from Valledoria, which are prepared in every possible way during the season.

The oil is then milled for the house from strictly Sardinian olives, cultivar tonda di Cagliari and semidana.

These ingredients are enhanced by express preparation: there are no ready-made sauces here, everything is made à la minute for maximum freshness.

A large part of the raw materials is sourced locally: starting with the prized lobsters from Isola Rossa and the authentic bottarga in large slices; but also the vegetables, such as the spiny artichokes from Valledoria, which during the season are prepared in every possible way.

Then, the oil is pressed for the house using strictly Sardinian olives, specifically the tonda di Cagliari and semidana cultivars.

These ingredients are enhanced by the made-to-order preparation: here there are no ready-made sauces; everything is made à la minute for maximum freshness.

THE MENU

the dishes of the moment

At Ai Frati Rossi, you can choose from a menu without a tasting option.
It features around forty dishes highlighting fish, along with meat and vegetarian choices to satisfy all guests. Additionally, a daily specials menu is introduced, focusing on “special arrivals.”

In February, there’s also a “truffle festival” from the Apennines featuring its own dedicated menu.

Raw dishes have always been a house specialty, ranging from exquisite marinated shrimp and prawns in seawater to various tartares. These can be presented as a delicious appetizer called “Imperialino,” consisting of a tartare, a carpaccio, and a marinated dish based on the catch of the day.

For those who prefer cooked dishes, there’s the seafood bouquet, another seasonal appetizer that may include a salad of artichokes with bottarga, Catalan-style shrimp with cherry tomatoes, onion, and chicory, or octopus with potatoes. Alternatively, the irresistible fried anchovies stuffed with filling recall the flavors of Liguria.

Meanwhile, meat lovers are catered to with bison tartare or classic beef tartare, seasoned with capers and mustard, served alongside ribbons of chicory root.

For vegetarians, there are seasonal salads and soups, such as the sunchoke soup, the legendary potato gnocchi with pesto, and the gnudi.

The eggless carbonara is a spaghetti with mullet bottarga that is super creamy, thanks to the emulsification of freshly grated bottarga in extra virgin olive oil, along with a thick layer on top for a celebration of Sardinia.

But there are also the black dishes, cuttlefish ink tagliatelle dressed with cuttlefish itself, shrimp, and tomatoes with a bold and spicy flavor.

Another signature dish of the house is the Mediterranean fish, made from giant Cabras specimens weighing 3-4 kilos, available until June, often laden with roe. The fillet is served in a broth with capers, potatoes, olives, and semi-dried tomatoes.

Among the desserts, the Delights, caramelized apples with Bourbon vanilla ice cream stand out, served in a chaud-froid style, with excellent alternatives of crêpes Suzette and a symphony of three chocolates.

Equally popular are the ice creams and fruit sorbets: for instance, Williams Williams, pear sorbet drowned in its own grappa, ricotta balls with crunchy caramel and corbezzolo honey, or hazelnut with lightly salted caramel sauce.